“The ring gives me a lifelong connection with the customer”

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Leo Mathilde Eberlin’s love for stones began at a young age. Today she designs a large number of pieces of jewelery, especially wedding and engagement rings, with her specially founded brand “Leo Mathild”.

If it goes well, the ring on the right finger will last a lifetime. So it is understandable that the choice of this piece of jewelry poses a great challenge for some newlyweds.

We spoke to jewelry designer Leo Eberlin from Berlin about wedding ring trends, the right materials and the manufacturing process. In addition, the founder of the label “Leo Mathild” revealed to us why it is okay as a woman to return the engagement ring if it is not what you want.

In the GALA interview: Leo Eberlin, designer and founder of the Leo Mathild label

GALA: Where does your passion for jewelry come from?
Leo Eberlin: In addition to school, I already worked for a jeweler. At sixteen I was already totally fascinated and in love with stones. When I put the showcases in and out, I took a close look at each ring, constantly tried on something and thought about how I would find it beautiful. I was often warned that I should hurry up and not dream around so much.

How does your wedding and engagement ring collection differ from your other pieces of jewelry?
The ready-to-wear collection that you can buy on our website is something that you have seen somewhere, that you like and then buy.

A wedding or engagement ring is a big step because I am usually connected to the customer for a lifetime.

It is very important that I understand as quickly as possible which ring I can build that the customer loves so much that he becomes one with him. Feeling naked when he takes the ring off somewhere. That’s a great deal of trust that I never want to underestimate.

Where do you get the inspiration for your wedding and engagement rings?
I was recently asked on Instagram if I thought I was a good designer. What a fun question because the truth is, I’m not a good designer at all.

I’m not a Karl Lagerfeld who sits down and scribbles great designs on a piece of paper out of nothing.

I can’t draw half as well as a 10-year-old daughter. I would say that I actually only have very good taste that people like and that I know what goes well together. And a good sense of what my customers might like.

Leo Eberlin works from her studio in Berlin and creates beautiful engagement and wedding rings there under the name “Leo Mathild”.
© Patrycia Lukas for Leo Mathild

Which materials do you prefer to use for your wedding and engagement rings?
That always depends on the style and skin type. Personally, I like white gold best because the stones then merge more with the ring band and look larger and whiter. But yellow gold or rose gold looks great on some customers and then I change my mind.

What makes your wedding and engagement rings so unique?
I think my pathological perfectionism when it comes to diamonds. I don’t like most of the stones and they are mercilessly thrown out of the selection. I have to fall in love just to like a diamond, that’s not enough for me.

I fly around the world to all exchanges and see everything that is new.

Every stone is selected by us by hand, even the very small ones. You can see and feel that, of course, because a certain magic only arises when a lot of love has been invested in something.

How long does the process – from design to production – of an engagement ring / wedding ring take?
It always depends on the season and how full we are, but on average it takes about six weeks. We even have some bestsellers in stock in many sizes, which are delivered to the customer within three days. But there are also products made with rare stones that are difficult to find, for which I first have to search a little longer and fly around.

What do you think men need to know if they want to buy an engagement ring from you? How should you best prepare?
The most important thing for me is the size. Although I have to say that I have seen so many hands over the past few years that I have a pretty high hit rate when I have to analyze the size with a photo. It has worked out this way many times. If necessary, you end up somewhere close by and enlarge or reduce the size of the ring according to the request. The style is also important. One can investigate so inconspicuously what the queen of hearts likes. Otherwise I just look at pictures where you can see the style clearly. Ring free for love engagement + wedding (22825)

What trends can we expect this year in terms of engagement and wedding rings?
In any case, our Lab Grown Diamond collection called LM STUDIO is shooting through the roof. The diamonds are grown in the laboratory over a long period of time. To do this, you take a very small piece of natural diamond, simulate the earth and let it grow under high temperature and high pressure. The result is a real diamond that is chemically, visually and physically identical, but much more environmentally friendly and only half as expensive.

By the way, when it comes to shapes, oval and radiant cuts are in great demand right now.

What is the best material for durable rings?
Many swear by platinum. But good, European palladium white gold is also very white in tone and very robust. There are many qualities in gold that most people just don’t know. They think if there is an 18 carat stamp in it, then it can only be the best. But many Asian manufacturers mix the gold in such a way that it is nice and soft for processing with machines. For a pair of earrings, this may not be so important. But an engagement ring has to last an extremely long time and go through a lot. We only use the expensive palladium gold.

What do you say: Can a woman exchange the engagement ring if she doesn’t like it?
For a moment it is of course a somewhat strange vibe for the engagement, but of course you have to stand over it. She should definitely like it, because there is nothing in life that you wear as often as an engagement and wedding ring. Fortunately, we only had this case once, because women of today have actually become very direct, openly saying during the relationship which ring they would like “one day”.

Most of the time the men come to us with a letter.

In case someone is wrong, I would recommend wearing the ring for a week and seeing what pleases and what doesn’t. Then I would suggest setting the main stone in a new setting, which we then design together with the wearer.

Sources used:Interview with Leo Eberlin

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